Schoolchildren are among those to have already tasted the results of the Plymouth Fish Finger Project, made using locally caught species that are usually discarded or used as bait
Eccles has its cake, Yorkshire has its pudding and Bakewell is known for its tart. Now Plymouth is angling to become famous for fish fingers by putting seafood bycatch on school dinner plates.
The UN estimates over 9m tonnes of fish, equivalent to 10% of global catches, are discarded annually. In the UK, 80% of fish consumed are the so-called big five: salmon, cod, tuna, haddock and prawns.
But in Plymouth, a collective of small-scale fisheries is using the humble fish finger to turn taste buds on to lesser-known, locally caught species. “This is about food security and social justice,” explained Caroline Bennett, founder of ethical fishmongers Sole of Discretion. “It’s giving local people access to their local fish.”
The idea is the brainchild of Plymouth Seafood and Fishing Association (PSFA) CEO Edward Baker, who wanted a way to feed locals with catch traditionally so undervalued that it is either thrown – dead – back to sea, or used as bait by crabbing fleets.
The PSFA teamed up with Sole of Discretion and Dr Clare Pettinger, associate professor in public health dietetics at the University of Plymouth. Pettinger’s work is part of the UK government-funded Food System Equality (FoodSEqual) research project, which works with communities to improve their local food systems.
Workshops revealed Plymouth residents were shocked to discover 90% of locally caught fish was eaten elsewhere: they wanted better access to fresh, local fish, more advice on how to cook and prepare it, and closer links with people working on fish supply chains.
Plymouth fish fingers being prepared at an event in July 2024. Image: Fotonow CIC
Pettinger went on to co-design a pilot a ‘Plymouth fish finger’ in collaboration with Bennett and Baker.
Bennett, who works exclusively with small-scale fisheries using boats under 10 metres in length, says that in 2023, her suppliers landed 10 tonnes of underutilised fish that might attract as little as 20p per kilo at market.
“It really doesn’t stack up economically for them,” she told Positive News. “Our idea was to say: ‘Look, guys – we’ll pay you a fair price.’ It’s not huge but it’s still 10 times more than they might get at market on a bad day.”
Caroline Bennett, founder of ethical fishmongers Sole of Discretion. Image: Ian Georgeson
Turning catch such as pouting and dogfish into handmade fish fingers proved laborious and, inevitably, expensive. But Bennett hopes that selling them through organic food delivery outfit Abel & Cole will essentially subsidise the price she charges to schools.
She’s now looking for grant funding to invest in manufacturing equipment that will mechanise the process, bringing costs down to 20-25p per fish finger. All being well, production should begin early in 2025.
This is about food security and social justice. It’s giving local people access to their local fish
Ultimately though, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. So far, the Plymouth fish finger has been piloted in two schools. So did it past the taste test? “Absolutely,” said Bennett. “To the point where all the schools want it. But let’s be honest: if you deep fat fry most things, they taste delicious!”
Main image: Caroline Bennett, photographed by Jason Taylor
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